Fallas 2007 - Fireworks and Noise in Valencia

Here in Valencia, the Fallas festival, including the painfully loud "Mascleta" and the astonishingly enormous Fallas themselves are the only reason you need to visit Spain at least once in your lifetime. Once experienced, you will probably return year after year and enriching your life's experiences at the same time.  The Fallas originated as a pagan ritual (ancient Meditarranean cultures brought to the shores of Valencia long ago) and this artistic display totally transforms the city during what we call "Fallas Week".  We also say "Only those who have actually seen it can believe it" - this is quite probably true.

Some 700 or so "fallas", or large and small papier-mache monuments mounted over wood frames, are burnt to cinders on the evening of 19th March in a tribute to St Joseph (San Jose), the patron saint of carpenters, and to the coming of the spring solstice - a typical mixture of pagan and religion, uniting the entire community of Valencia. It is a ritual recovered from pre-Christian times which the Catholic church now rightfully claims as its own, paying homage to Our Lady of the Forsaken, the city's patron saint (the festival includes the building and decorating, entirely in flowers, of a gigantic statue of the Virgin Mary in the plaza just outside Valencia Cathedral).

"Falla" (the monument itself) originated from the wooden candleholders, called "parots" or "pelmodos" that city carpenters used in their workshops during the winter. They would bring them out into the streets in the spring and burn them up during a night-time celebration. It was customary to adorn these "stands" with old clothes and even to place masks over them to imitate some local character. The modern day fallas continue this tradition and are artistic and sculptural parodies of current politics - both local, national and international - and reveal an insight into the mentality of the Valencian people.

They would then be immolated to celebrate the coming of warm weather.   The "parot" then was converted into a humerous character known as a "ninot" from the word meaning something like "a doll, a grotesque figurine, a chump".  These were made in an ironic tone to look like local authority figures, clergymen, ladies and squires etc.  These days the figures are more likely to include popstars, politicians and local characters.

The fallas festivity has always included a flower offering to Our Lady of the Forsaken since 1945.  Two afternoons are dedicated to the parades composed of all the Fallas Commissions, headed by the Fallas Queens and their Courts of Honour. Traditional costumes are worn and baskets full of flowers are carried. These processions can often be seen on the television also but it is best to witness the colour and emotion in person.

Guarded by the Miguelete tower and just behind the Valencia Cathedral, the Plaza de la Virgen is transformed into a flower garden during the offering.  The facade of the basilica becomes a floral tapestry that covers the entire wall, giving shape to a huge representation of Our Lady.  Photos simply do not do this justice and the smell of the flowers alone must be worth the price of the trip to Valencia.

Info: Turisme Generalitat Valenciana

With thanks to VT reader Bobbybabs for sending in the two photos above!

The Valencia Trader will be covering Las Fallas 2007 in Valencia with more articles, pictures and stories. If you are considering visiting Fallas 2007 in March 2007 then you need to start thinking about booking your flights and accommodation now. The Valencia Trader website has a number of advertisers, links and information to help you make the most of Fallas 2007!

Enjoy!